From Runway to Revolution: Milestones in 21 Years of SAFW
In over two decades, South African Fashion Week has delivered a rich timeline of milestone moments - each marking a new chapter in the country’s fashion narrative. From shifting schedules to iconic venues, from breakthrough collections to industry “firsts,” these milestones chart SAFW’s evolution from a single annual show to a biannual, multi-faceted showcase that it is today. This blog takes you on a journey through some key highlights: the firsts, famous firsts, and turning points that have defined SAFW’s legacy. Whether you’re a seasoned follower or new to the story, these moments capture how SAFW went from an ambitious idea in 1997 to a national institution by its 21st year – and beyond.
In its early years, SAFW was a once-a-year affair held every spring. But as the local industry grew, so did the calendar. From 1997 to 2006, SA Fashion Week was a single annual event each early spring (showcasing summer collections). Then in 2007, a major milestone: SAFW introduced a second season for winter collections, aligning with international practice of biannual shows. This expansion acknowledged the increasing output of designers and the need to present both Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer lines. By splitting into two seasonal showcases, SAFW gave designers more opportunities and firmly established a year-round fashion cycle in South Africa.
Venues, too, tell a story of evolution. The very first SAFW took place in a marquee in Sandton (Mandela Square), but over the years it migrated across Johannesburg’s landscape - from museums to upscale shopping centers - reflecting both growth and ingenuity. A memorable shift came in 2011 when SAFW launched a Pop-Up Shop in Sandton City’s Fountain Court, literally placing local fashion in the center of commerce for the public to engage. By 2018, SAFW’s Autumn/Winter collections were grandly staged at Sandton City Mall itself. Meanwhile, Spring/Summer 2016 had moved to Hyde Park Corner. These moves into prominent venues signified that local fashion had become mainstream entertainment. Additionally, many designers started opting for unique, off-site venues to match their collection themes - be it rooftops, art galleries or city streets – adding an extra creative dimension to the runway experience.
Throughout its timeline, SAFW notched numerous “firsts” that pushed boundaries. In 1998, it hosted the first-ever Young Designers Competition (later known as Elle New Talent), which offered a spotlight to emerging creatives – a concept ahead of its time in Africa. Fast forward to 2009: SAFW introduced the country’s first standalone menswear week (menswear had been shown alongside womenswear since 1998, but by the late 2000s, the growth of men’s fashion warranted dedicated attention). In 2014, recognising menswear’s explosive growth as “the fastest growing fashion segment,” SAFW launched the Scouting Menswear competition - a pioneering platform focusing purely on new talent in men’s design.
Another game-changer was the emphasis on the business side of fashion. By 2010, SAFW officially adopted the tagline “The Business of Fashion,” underlining a shift from just being a showcase of creativity to a driver of industry growth. This was more than a slogan: it heralded initiatives like the Buyers’ Lounge (established 2010, evolving from the trade show floors SAFW ran since 2001) and partnerships with major retailers. One such milestone partnership in 2011 saw a SAFW Designer Capsule Collection space open in Edgars stores – the first time local designer garments were sold in a mainstream department store environment. This effectively bridged runway and retail, making “catwalk to consumer” a reality in South Africa.
SAFW’s history is studded with unforgettable collections that became cultural moments. Think of 2003, when Stoned Cherrie’s “Drum” collection paid homage to historic Drum magazine covers, bringing Afrocentric pop culture to the catwalk and sparking conversations about identity. Or 2009, when Black Coffee’s avant-garde “South” collection imagined an African traveler’s style through a futuristic lens, blending tradition with innovation. In 2017, designer Rich Mnisi’s bold gender-fluid collection turned heads and challenged norms, epitomising the new wave of South African design. Venue choices also created moments: the Nelson Mandela Bridge in Johannesburg, for instance, served as an epic outdoor runway for a show, merging fashion with an iconic urban landmark (a bold statement on unity and progress). Each year brought fresh stories: a celebrity turning model for a cause, a politically-inspired collection making headlines, or a surprise collaboration (like when designers paired with visual artists to create cross-disciplinary showcases).
From timing tweaks to trailblazing initiatives, from one tent to citywide experiences, the milestones of SA Fashion Week chart an incredible journey of growth and influence. Each step - big or small - built on the last, transforming SAFW into not just an event but a barometer of South African cultural and economic development. As we celebrate these milestones, we’re reminded that fashion is never static. It responds, it adapts, it leads. SAFW’s past 21 years are proof of a living, evolving platform—one that will undoubtedly continue to set new milestones as it strides into the future, one fabulous collection at a time.
